Entry for Foundations Revealeds competition: The peacock corset

This is the UK dress diary for my entry for Foundations Revealeds competition 2013: Ornamentation. The corset was produced in december 2010, but as it fits the ornamentation category so well, i decided to give it a go.

The technical specifications:

• single layer coutil
• 7 mm spiral steel boning at all seams
• 7 mm spring steel at center back closure.
• Thais silk fashion layer
• 151 peacock feathers
• 26 metal eyelets
• satin band

Construction:
I used an old self-drafted pattern, with a discrete overbust shape, and no reduction at the waist, as it was to be used for new year eve dinner, and I'd like some comfort while wearing it. Using the pattern as a guide, I planned the position of the peacockfeathers. The feathers were placed, so the eyes of each feather was shown to its best advantage.

 The pattern used for the corset.

Each feather was then cut, so the eye and a little rim of brow flowy featherparts were kept. Each feather was then sewn on to the olivegreen thai silk, -a leftover from my wedding gown. In order to keep and overview of the project, each feathers position was marked with a pin. Each feather was then sewn on with approximately 5-7 stitches around the stem of the feather.

A feather sewn on to the silk. discrete stitches have been used around the stem to secure the feather.

After having sewn on most of the feathers I realised, that the placement pattern was not good. All though all feathers were displayed as well as possible, it never created a whole. It was a corset, with peacock feathers on, not a peacock corset.

 The original placement of the feathers did not work as a whole.

So I removed all exept the lowest line of feathers, and fiddled with the next layer, until I had a design I liked. After that, it was a simple question of stitching feather on. I used different sizes of feathers depending on the diameter of the corset where I was working. The big and medium feathers were used on the hip and chest, while the small feathers were used at the waist.

 

 The two lowest lines of feathers, with an overlap that shows of the feathers, while still creating a whole.

As the stomach and back area was getting done, I had to decide on the placement of the feathers on the chest, as they had to line up in a nice way, in order to expose as few ugly stems as possible. In order to keep an overview, I regularly mounted the silk/featherlayer on mu dress form, to assess how everything was working together.

I decided on changing the directions of the feathers gradually, so they pointed away from the center of the chest. Thus, the last stems wound be covered with only three well placed feathers.

 

The almost covered fashionlayer. The feather eyes are almost covered by the brown fluffy part of the surrounding feathers. 

After the feathers were all sewn on the fashion layer, it was time to finish the structural layer. All seams were ironed open, and covered with a tube for the 7 mm spiral boning.  At the back metal eyelets were placed with more eyelets towards the waist.

 

Finally the fashionlayer were sewn together with the structural layer, all done by hand. At the back the fashionlayer overlaps the eyelets, so the satin band is kept away from the feathers, and stress them as little as possible.

After assembling everything I trimmed the feathers lightly, in order to make the corset less fluffy and show off the eyes of the feathers.I tried to trim the feathers as discretely as possible.

And the peacock corset was done! 

New Years Eve Dress 2012/2013

This is the new years eve dress for 2012/2013! Finish a whole 24 hours before it is to be used...
This year the dress consists of a black corset decorated with lace and rhinestones, together with a chiffon skirt. As a new feature for me, the back is covered with a modesty panel.

The corset consists of a single layer of black coutil, with a 2 cm band functions as a waistband, and self-fabric bands for the wires. The wires themself are made from 7 mm spiral steel boning and simple 7 mm spring steel boning. The edges are finished with a simple black cotton biastape. The coutil was cut back when I made the green underbust, but have been packed away while we moved in 2012.

In order to decorate the corset, I used two different types of lace; a burgundy lace, and burgundy and gold lace, found in City Sycenter at Valby, that had loads of stuff on reduced prices, as they were closing. Normally the golden/burgundy lace is 900 dkk (160 $) pr meter, but I found a bucket full of leftovers, for 50 dkk (9 $) a piece. And yes, I did almost empty said bucket.
As a final touch, I gued on 175 preciosa rhinestones i two golden colors. Most people know swarowski, but apparently preciosa should be just as good. I found my rhinestones on rhinstene.dk.

In order to create a whole outfit, I made a simple skirt using 4 meters of 140 cm wide black chiffon. It was cut into four pieces, and sewn together forming a large tube. It was then attached to a 3 cm wide black elastic, and the edges finished with a rolled hem.

Finally I tried something new, that I have wanted to try for some time now: A modesty panel.
When closing a corset, the skin is pushed towards the back, and often forms an unsightly meatfold. As this is a rather unflattering sight, it is often covered with a modesty panel. In its simplest form a modesty panel is a piece of fabric covering the back, but it can be made more sofisticated:
On Electra corsetrys homepage I say a version, that does not wrinkle or fold in any direction. The panel was held in shape with wires both vertical and horisontical. The panel was futhermore held in place, by a band, where the lacing goes through. I have always avoided modestypanels because the twist and turn, but this design was so good I had to try it out for myself. As it happens, they are quite easy to sew.

The decoration is heavily influenced by Sparklewren bespoke corsetry. Her use of lace and rhinestones are extremely elegant, and the quality of her corsets very high. Lucky for me, she is a writer at Foundations Revealed, and she have covered most of the basic techniques for this corset.
The new years eve dress is thus very much a product of my main inspirations from 2012, and required all the skills I learned this year. Very fitting for a NYE dress, don't you think?