How to take your measurements

Please read through this section, before you use the corset pattern generator, as it is important to use the right measurements to get a proper fit. 

How to measure?
Below you can see all the measurement on my model. 
I used elastic to mark out everything, but any kind of tape will do, as long as it will stay put. You might want to undress to just a bra (no padding!) and use masking tape on the skin, as this will be the most stable way to mark. This way you can also draw on your model.
As you need both front and back measurements, I highly suggest you use some kind of marking.
Taking the vertical measurements:
Mark out the bust, underbust, waist, high hip and low hip with elastic as follows:

Bust: The height of your nipple, when wearing a well fitting bra.
Underbust: The lowest point of the bra wire, when wearing a well fitting bra.
Waist: The height of your natural waist. remember, this might not be your smallest place. Try to bend to the side, and the point that you bend at will show you your waist placement.
High hip: This measurement is to make room for your illiac crest (upper curve of hipbone). Poke at your hip at the side to find the top of your hipbone. and place the elastic there.
Low hip: This is the maximum length of the corset, that allows you to bend your legs and sit.The anterior superior iliac spine (the bone poking out at the front of your hip) is a good place to mark from. Alternatively just bend your leg and mark the point where you bend.

Bust curve: 
The bust curve is a help to get a nice fit over the bust and should be placed at 5 cm above nipple level and hit the bustline at the sideline. If you want more coverage than that, add it when you make your mockup.

All vertical measurements are either from bust to somewhere or from waist to somewhere. So this is not just the distance between each line.

Taking the horisontal measurements: 
When still wearing the elastics, add a sideline at each side. Measure all front and back measurements from sideline to sideline.The 'curve over bust' is only taken on the front, and should be measured from where the line hits the bustline at the sideline and over the curve of the bust.

Measure out all horisontal measurements and check your front and back measurements against your total measurement.

If front and back does not add up to your total circumference, then take the measurements again! Also, chose a specific point on your marking (middle of elastic) and measure from that. This is corsetry and a cm deviance makes a big difference in fit.

In this demo we forgot to check against the total circumsphere, and the underbust measurements came out 4 cm too big. Do take this step serious.

Placement of measurements, seen from the front and side. 

Placement of measurements, seen from the back, and in relation to where the leg bends at the hip.  

The measurements as seen on the corset:

Here you can see the placement of the measurements on the corset itself.

The final corset and making modifications to the pattern

 The mockup of the corset. Note the wrinkles in the underbust region, and at the seam between the front 
middle and front side pattern. These needed to be fixed!

As I described above, then we made a mistake at the underbust measurement, making it 4 cm too big. This is obvious in the wrinkles on the corset when made up. To correct this, the 4 cm was removed evenly distributed over all seams except center front and center back.

The 'waist bump'
Depending on your measurements, then the pattern might make a bump at the waist, on the third panel (panel C). I highly recommend that you remove this bump by smoothing out the curve. You can reintroduce the lost circumference by adding it to the rest of the seams at the front pieces, or just leave it out, making the waist a little smaller.

More coverage
When we took the measurements for the bust to top, we took it at 95 mm, as we wanted a little more coverage. This turned out not to work very well, so we cut it down to the recommended 50 mm. If you want more coverage, please draft with 50 mm as bust to top, and make your modifications on your mockup. This will give a better fit.

 The models pattern when printed.

 The corrected pattern.

Now you are ready to use the corset pattern generator!

1 kommentar:

  1. I have a waist bump. By smoothing the curve I would actually add circumference, wouldn't I?