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fredag den 7. februar 2014

The Ice queen ensemble

As I have mentioned before, I have my very own pet burlesque dancer Lady Effulgent, that I occasionally sew for. A big relief in my time of volume, as this means that I can still make huge gowns that are larger than life!

 Foto by Pao-Lung Tsai

This February Lady Effulgent needed a dress for the "Wicked Waltzes at the Russian Cabaret Verboten", aka Copenhagen Burlesque's winter party. With the theme set as a winter wonderland, I soon came up with a costumedesign, that we both liked: The ice queen ensemble.


 (yep, that is how my conceptdrawings looks like today, rather random, and often on whatever paper is avaliable. Also: I store them as crappy photos taken with my old smartphone that has a rather poor camera. )

As such, we believed this would not be such a hard dress to make. I had already made her both a corset and a pencilskirt before, so nothing new there. So we added a little bit of finesse to the design: For the headdress we wanted to try out lasercutting, and why not cover corset, bra and headdress in rhinestones?
Snow glitters after all.

Yup. This is going to take more than one post to tell you about!

The Ice corset and bra, and how to become philosophical from too much rhinestoning


A rough calculation told us that the corset alone would need 5600 stones, that one of us was going to glue on the corset by hand. Oh, and we wanted an iciclepattern on the corset too.

 So, I sewed up one of my by now classical single layer underbusts: 1 layer of coutil, same fabric for boning channels, spiralsteels and flatsteels for boning and nice big grommets to make it easy to take off on stage.


As I am a controlfreak, I also ended up doing the rhinestoning. That way I was sure to get the corset exactly as I wanted it.


Now, I am becoming quite fast at adding rhinestones, but 5600 stones are not set in one day. So after a couple of evenings rhinestoning, I ended up rather philosophical on the subject of sewing and rhinestones:

 Aaaalmost there!

A lot of people comment on me being creative... I find that somewhat amusing.
Honestly; creativity really isn't the main characteristic you need, when making big bold dresses.

Creativity is good and nice and entertaining. Creativity is what gives you the initial design, and it helps you along the way, when stuff blows up and you have to well, be creative.
But most of the time, what you need is dedication. Dedication, Precision and Patience.

You need to find references for your concept, you need to find the right material at the right price. You need to find a pattern, alter it, test it, and then alter it again, just to be sure you don't fuck up your expensive cloth. You need to sew the dress and then rip up the seams because it wasn't perfect. You need to take your time doing things right, and when you fuck up, you fix them. And when you decide you want to use 5000+ rhinestones, you sit down and glue each and every one of them on, in the right pattern and in the right spot, no matter how long it takes. Because at this point, you just made the dress of your life and god damn it, it's going to be perfect!

So, creativity really isn't that big a thing for me. Nor is the ever elusive 'talent' everybody seems to be obsessing about. Having an inherited talent is absolutely useless, if you do not back it up with hours and hours of hard work to improve yourself. And this is where motivation and inspiration comes in.

Nobody does anything without some sort of motivation, and everything is possible with the right motivation.
Having fun, getting praise or mere inspiration, it doesn't really matter what rocks your boat. If you get it from doing something, you get motivated, you will keep on doing it and you will become good at what you do.

So that is why I am having loads of fun, doing the same menial task 5600+ times.

I am not creative.
I am merely so inspired by the project, that I just HAVE to see it done. And then I'll become good on the way.


Minor rant over, it should be safe to come out now:)

The corset ended up with 6350 stones on it and it is sparkly! We also bought a white bra to match, and covered the cups in matching rhinestones, approximately 1450. So the total of rhinestones is currently 7800 pcs with more to come.


fredag den 24. januar 2014

The nude underbust


After making the NYE dress, I decided to modify the pattern from a 6 panel piece to a 7 panel, making it possible to create an even more dramatic silouette with a stronger hip to waist curve.


The nude underbust is a test run on that pattern, with a single layer of coutil, cotton twill tape for waisttape, spiralsteels and flatsteels as boning and cream satin for binding and lacing. Now, I did get a rather amazing figure from the corset, as I had modified it to reduce the waist 2,5 cm / 1 inch extra compared to the NYE dress. And it did fit as a dream.

...I just didn't take any pictures at the time.

I planned to make a photoshoot with it, with loads of cream and white colors, and I even started collecting nice accessories. And then I got pregnant.

Now, 5-6 months later (still rather pregnant btw), I'm not seeing a photoshoot happening for this little thing any time soon. So, in order for it to at least be shown, you get a picture of it on my mannequin. Unfortunately corsets just don't look as good on a non-squishable mannequin, so there are some rippling in the fabric around the waistline and the silouette is not as marked as it was in person.

Looking at it now, so many months later, I can see the potential to bring it to a new level, as I got some pretty lace in cream lying around and just got some new rhinestones that will match the color theme quite well. 

So this piece might just be my motivational treat to get my figure back, once everything calms down.



søndag den 12. februar 2012

Grønt corset

Efter at havde lavet det turkis corset erkendte jeg, at jeg vil have et corsetmønster der er fuldstændig modeleret efter mine mål. Det turkis, det musel-malede og det røde corset er alle lavet efter truly victorians corset-mønster, og selvom de sidder udemærket (jeg har jo modificeret mønsteret til dem alle sammen) så sidder de ikke perfekt.

I november lavede jeg derfor et nyt mønster baseret på et gammelt corsagemønster jeg lavede til mig selv da jeg gik på Textilskolen i Holte. For at få et så realistisk mønster som muligt, brugte jeg corsagedrejl til at teste og tilrette mønsteret i, og da jeg var færdig stod jeg tilbage med stofstykker der ikke helt passede til et fuldt overbust corset, men fint kunne laves om til et underbust.

Det dyre stof skulle jo ikke gå til spilde, så de blev kombineret med et par rester fra da jeg syede min brudekjole og voila! Et lækkert olivengrønt corset!
Corsettet går til lige under brystet, så overkanten dækkes af bh'en. Det er lavet i to lag corsagedrejl og har et taljebånd indsyet, så det er ekstra solidt i taljen. Stiverne er som sædvanlig 7mm spiralstivere og 7 mm blød fjederstål på hver side af snørrehullerne. Kanterne er syet med bomuldskantebånd dækket med silke der er klippet på skrå af trådretningen. For at få så pæne kanter som muligt har jeg syet den endelige syning på kantebåndet i hånden, så det ikke kan ses fra forsiden.


 
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